Hillfort of Coaña, a gate to ancient Asturias
Height has always meant advantage. Whether it is a duel between Obi Wan Kenobi and Lord Vader or the construction of an ancient settlement. Being higher up allows you to watch your surroundings, to feel safe. That is why the Celts used to choose high locations to build their settlements. And the hillfort of Coaña, in the parish of Villacondide, is a perfect example. It is the most famous hillfort in Asturias, it watches over the Navia estuary near its end and it is also a first class weekend getaway.
The hillfort of Coaña. | Shutterstock
As in the case of many other hillforts, the one in Coaña has an uncertain origin. For years it was thought it dated back to the 1st century BC, when the natives contacted the Romans. However, the evidence has been delaying the estimate until the 4th or 5th BC. This implies that the castreña culture had fortresses long before the arrival of the invaders from the Italic peninsula.
Because what characterised these ancient inhabitants of Iberia were precisely their walled settlements. Small isolated towns, such as Coaña, that is believed to have housed hundreds of souls during its peak period. Spread between Galicia, Asturias, León, Zamora and Portugal, close to the Duero river.
Hundreds of people lived in the hillfort of Coaña. | Shutterstock
The funerary uses, without urns to deposit the remains of their loved ones. Their lifestyle combined farming, obtaining raw materials from the environment and metallurgy, and they were even excellent goldsmiths. The Romans meant the end of this culture whose remains survived in Galicia, for example in Santa Trega. Finally, the belief of it being the most famous hillfort in Asturias comes from its extensive study. José María Flórez made the first serious excavations in the late 19th century. Many more archaeologists would arrive later.
Aerial view where both areas of Castrillón can be clearly seen. | Shutterstock
The fact that it can be visited is perhaps its most important feature, otherwise it would not be a very good weekend getaway. That said, the stamp of the also called Castrillón stands out. There are two clearly differentiated segments. On the one hand, the acropolis, which is less restored, and on the other the lower area of houses. Both have their own walls, several lines wider in the case of the upper part. Between the neighborhoods, in the access, the remains of a powerful tower can be distinguished. It is also known that there were moats that complemented the walls, although today they are covered.
It has around 80 huts, round, and oval in some cases. There are also larger rooms, presumably communal spaces for labor or storage. Of these, the most interesting are a dupla that intermingles curved and rectangular plant. Their function, like the origin of the hillfort of Coaña, has been reinterpreted. Although they were believed to be crematory ovens, today they are considered spaces associated with water. A curious historiographic oxymoron. They are also said to have been a type of saunas. In any case, they are usually interpreted as sacred rooms.
The results of the intensive study of Coaña are reflected in a didactic classroom. It reviews the elements that characterised the castreña culture, paying special attention to the hillfort. Regarding the opening hours of the site, it is open every day but Mondays and Tuesdays.
Ribadeo never disappoints. | Shutterstock
In nearby Coaña, the town that gives its name to the hillfort, stands a granite disk. It is the so-called stone of Nuestra Señora, a Christianised denomination for a monument that is believed to date from the same period as the forthill. It is very curious. Following the Navia estuary to the sea you reach El Espín and the town of the same name, one on the left bank and the other on the right. The latter is a town of interest, perfect to enjoy Asturian gastronomy and it has a very active naval industry. It is also a crossing point for the Northern Way of Camino de Santiago.
Towards Galicia, the A-8 allows you to quickly reach charming places such as the hillfort of Cabo Blanco, Viavélez or Tapia de Casariego. Finally, there is another estuary, the Ribadeo or Eo, depending on which side you ask. On the Asturian side, Vegadeo (or simple Eo) stands out and on the Galician side, you will find Ribadeo. The bridge that leads to the latter is almost as impressive as the panoramic view of the town. Another place of good food that also boasts great examples of Indian architecture.
Port of Luarca. | Shutterstock
Heading east from Navia, you’ll reach the charming Puerto de Vega in no time. A little further on is the impressive Luarca. The birthplace of Severo Ochoa and the well-known bus company ALSA has one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the country. In addition, its horseshoe-shaped layout leaves the best postcards to show off when you get back home. Small temples, restaurants of every cuisine, beaches, pastry shops and narrow and steep streets starting from the port complete a village that has nothing to envy to other fishing villages such as the exploited Cudillero.
The fort of Coaña or Castrillón is a well restored and full of history green place. A border of the hillfort culture, right next to the Asturian culture, which began in the Navia estuary. This place, very accessible and surrounded by nature, sums up the typical image of Asturias. In this case, the fame is more than justified. Little more needs to be said.
