Horta de Sant Joan, the Catalan village that inspired Picasso
Of all the charming villages in Catalonia, Horta de Sant Joan may be one of the most artistic. This town in Tarragona was a key part of the life of Pablo Picasso, a renowned painter and one of the creators of Cubism. But beyond the relationship of this town with the artist, Horta de Sant Joan offers many other attractions for a visit. Its natural environment combines very well with all the cultural aspects, making it an ideal excursion for both children and adults.
The medieval style has been very well preserved in the old part of the village. | Shutterstock
It is possible to trace the origins of Horta de Sant Joan back to the time of the Iberians, although it is not possible to pinpoint the settlement with absolute certainty. The remains and sites found in various excavations lend credibility to this theory. However, it was during the Romanisation of the peninsula that the town began to take on greater importance. Horta de Sant Joan was very close to a secondary road that communicated with Tortosa, making it a stopping point for travellers and merchants.
During the Muslim conquest, Horta de Sant Joan had a border fortress. Although this fact is documented around 1153, no remains of the castle can be found today. Before that, in 1097, it was reconquered by Ramon Berenguer III, encouraging the repopulation of the area.
From the 13th and 14th centuries onwards, the construction of the Church of San Juan Bautista, the Convent of Sant Salvador and the Prior’s Tower began. The population grew steadily until the 17th century. Horta de Sant Joan was on the side of the Castilians in what is known as the Guerra dels Segadors (Reapers’ War). This caused the other side to attack, assault and sack the town. In spite of this, over the years the number of residents and importance of the town increased again, especially after Picasso’s visit to this Catalan town.
In the Picasso Centre you can see reproductions of the artist’s most iconic works. | Shutterstock
The young Pablo Picasso was studying at the Lonja in Barcelona when he fell ill with scarlet fever, aged just 17. It is a bacterial disease that causes red rashes all over the body, hence its name. As well as high fever and sore throat.
It was Manel Pallarés, his classmate and friend, who suggested he spend some time in Horta de Sant Joan to recover. For six months he lived with the family and managed to overcome the illness, as well as finding great inspiration to devote himself to painting. His stay bore visible fruit: some of his landscape works came out of it.
Pablo Picasso returned to Horta de Sant Joan a decade later, this time with his partner. The rural atmosphere and the natural energy of the place inspired him to consolidate his own style, Cubism. During those four months he produced paintings such as La balsa de Horta and La Montaña de Santa Bárbara.
In 1992, the old hospital of the village was restored to house the Picasso Centre, where a journey through the life of the artist and his presence in Horta de Sant Joan can be made. Inside there are reproductions of his most symbolic works, as well as all the information of interest for those who want to learn more about the artist.
A walk along the greenway is a magnificent way of getting to know this part of Catalonia. | Shutterstock
What was it that so enchanted Picasso in Horta de Sant Joan? Not only the warmth of its inhabitants, but also the incredible landscapes that surround the village. Bordering Aragon, the Ports Natural Park is one of the main natural attractions of the area. It has approximately 35,000 hectares full of wild pines, bristlecone pines, holm oaks and kermes oaks. Wildlife such as wild goats, otters and wild cats can be found during excursions in the area. In the Ecomuseu dels Ports, located in Horta de Sant Joan, you can get much more information and guidance.
The Val de Zafán Greenway, which runs from Tortosa to Puebla de Híjar following the route of some old railway tracks, is also nearby. The line was never used, leaving a path that crosses forests and mountains, ideal for those who enjoy cycling tours and are looking for a rest in Horta de Sant Joan.
Another very interesting natural place to visit is Les Olles d’Horta de Sant Joan. It is a paradisiacal place where you can find different pools of water. It is a magnificent place to visit with children in summer, as they can swim and jump from some rocks in complete safety.
As a curiosity, very close by is also Lo Parot, an olive tree with more than two thousand years of life. It was declared a monumental tree in 1990, standing over 8 metres high.
The scenery alone is worth a trip to the Convent of Sant Salvador. | Shutterstock
For those who enjoy architecture, in Horta de Sant Joan you can discover a couple of very interesting religious buildings. The Church of Sant Joan Baptista, in the town, and the Convent of Sant Salvador, away from the town centre. The Church of San Juan Bautista was built in the 12th century, is Gothic in style and consists of a single nave. Some buttresses protrude from a rear ravine, giving it an impressive appearance. It was restored in the 1960s because it suffered significant damage during the Spanish Civil War. Among them, the destruction of a 14th century altarpiece.
Situated next to the mountain of Santa Bárbara, the Convent of Sant Salvador stands as a dominant figure in the landscape of Horta de Sant Joan. Over the centuries, the complex was built in collaboration with the Templars, the Hospitallers and the Franciscan monks. In 1990, the site and the interior were restored and can be visited with a guide. However, you can also explore the surrounding area to discover some of the rooms in ruins, which are accessible free of charge.
