Behind the walls of the coldest village in Spain
It sits in the marvellous Alto Tajo Natural Park, away from the big cities, and it has one of the most extreme weathers in Spain. This is the perfect way to describe Molina de Aragón. In fact, it belongs to the ‘ice triangle’ and has registered some of Spain’s lowest temperatures. For this reason, it is considered by many as the coldest village in Spain.
This locality has a fascinating town centre and walls, but its charm goes even further. Specifically, to the northeast, where you will find the Laguna de Gallocanta Natural Park. If you go in the opposite direction, you will meet two other gems, Sigüenza and Guadalajara.
Molina de Aragón. | Shutterstock
Molina de Aragón’s climate brings warm, dry temperatures in the summer and extremely cold temperatures in the winter. To understand its history, it’s essential to consider its geographical position. It’s the capital of the comarca of Señorío de Molina-Alto Tajo, a historical transit point between the lands of the Kingdom of Castile and those of the Kingdom of Aragón. Both kingdoms fought frequently to obtain ownership of this municipality.
These disputes began after the reign of Abengalbón, who was a friend of El Cid Campeador. In 1129, Molina de Aragón (whose name was ‘Molina’ at that moment) was conquered by the Aragonese king Alfonso the Battler. Since it was located in the western area of the Sistema Central, it was repopulated by subjects of the Kingdom of Castile. Therefore, a conflict emerged between both kingdoms.
The Castilian count Don Manrique de Lara, who ruled the village in 1137, provided Molina with its own jurisdiction. This way, the locality had its own government which remained detached from Aragón and Castilla until 1293. By this year, Molina was popularly known as Los Caballeros. In 1293, the municipality’s independence was eradicated and an endless battle for it began between the two kingdoms. The fight lasted until 1375 when it became Castilla’s property. It got its name, Molina de Aragón, as a concession to the other kingdom. And it still preserves that name today.
And here is a curious fact: this place was extremely important for the Spanish War of Independence or Peninsular War. It became a guerrilla area, the reason why the French troops set fire and raided Molina de Aragón. The Cortes of Cádiz conceded it the title of Muy Noble y Muy Leal Ciudad (‘Very Noble and Very Loyal Town’) to honour its heroism.
Castle of Molina de Aragón. | Shutterstock
All the events that have taken place in Molina de Aragón, all the cultures that have lived here, and all the government changes it has been through have definitely left a true impact on it. Its past lives through its historic-artistic heritage. A heritage whose main tourist attraction is the castle which it shares its name with, a fortress of gigantic dimensions.
This is the greatest symbol of power this manor has ever had. Its origins date back to the 11th century when the Arabs built it on an old Celtiberian castro. The patio de armas is worth a visit and offers the perfect view of an old Roman church. Besides, four of its original eight towers are preserved. And let’s not forget about the Torre de Aragón, which sits on top of it.
Nowadays, it is possible to visit the Castillo de Molina Museum. You should also take a look at the walled enclosure known as ‘El Cinto.’
Molina de Aragón. | Shutterstock
The neighborhood of Judería (the Spanish term for ‘Jewry’) unfolds on the lowest area of the fortress. It is one of the mandatory visits in this village. This walled enclosure of narrow, pebbled streets hides archaeological remains that prove its importance in the past, especially in the 16th century.
On the other hand, the neighbourhood of La Morería lies at the entrance to the town centre of the city. The Muslims lived in this area. The high constructions of popular architecture are still preserved.
There are many Roman buildings in Molina de Aragón, but the Santa Clara Church is the best sample. It was built in the mid-12th century by Pedro Gómez from red sandstone. The Soledad Hermitage, the Santa María del Conde Church and the San Pedro Church are more good examples. They all were modified in the 16th century.
The Santa María la Mayor de San Gil Temple is an important attraction too. Just like the others, this is a Roman church, but this one was renovated in the 16th century. Explore its main altarpiece of Renaissance style, a sculpture of the Virgen de la Inmaculada and the baptismal font. However, the Gothic San Felipe Church dates back to the 17th century.
Roman bridge of Molina de Aragón. | Shutterstock
The Gallo River that navigates Molina de Aragón from north to south is crossed by a Roman or old bridge. This medieval work of great beauty during the repopulation of the city. It’s composed of segmental arches built from red sandstone.
But there is more to see. The Convento de San Francisco awaits you on Adarves Street. Its construction began in 1284 at the behest of Doña Blanca, Molina de Aragón’s last independent lady. Its tower, crowned by a wind vane or Giraldo, was renovated in the Baroque era. Nowadays, it hosts the Molina de Aragón Museum, where archaeological, entomological, and paleontological remains are exhibited.
The Fiestas del Carmen are held every July. Declared a Fiesta of National Tourist Interest, they honour the Virgin. But they also are important due to the flamboyant parades of the Caballeros de la Orden Militar. Its origins date back to the 13th century. They carry the standard through the streets of Molina, wearing their uniforms, at a rapid pace.
You can also read this article in Spanish here.
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