Basilica of San Martiño in Mondoñedo, the oldest cathedral in Spain
One of the first things one should know when approaching the Basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo is that many experts consider it the oldest cathedral in Spain. This church was built between the 11th and 12th centuries, when it became an episcopal seat. Centuries have passed through this temple, a fact that becomes a feeling when you stand in front of its ancient Romanesque walls.
Basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo, in Foz. | Shutterstock
The origins of this title of oldest cathedral in Spain date back to the 11th century, although it seems that its birth as a temple is found much earlier. Specifically, in the 6th century, when the Christians fled from their enemies in Britain, today’s Great Britain, to settle in the Mariña lucense. They founded then a monastery that many consider the direct antecedent of this basilica.
In any case, San Martiño de Mondoñedo was, in the 11th century and for a time, a double episcopal seat. On the one hand, of the Dumiense bishopric, which moved from Dumio, today’s Braga, fleeing from the Muslims. On the other hand, from Bretoña, today’s Santa María de Bretoña, where these Bretons settled. To the bishopric of Dumio, already in the ninth or early tenth century and under the mandate of Bishop Sabarico of Dumio, corresponded the construction or perhaps reconstruction of the church.
At the beginning of the 12th century, however, the cathedral seat was moved. Too close to the coast, it was increasingly necessary to prevent possible maritime invasions, so it was moved about twenty kilometers inland from the coast. To a place called Vallibria which, in memory of this primitive episcopate, took its name, Mondoñedo, and became the municipality it is today.
The basilica, for its part, became a parish church in the 17th century. It was not until 2007 that it received the title of minor basilica, while one of the most important restorations in its history took place.
A closer image of the basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo. | Shutterstock
Declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 1931, the predominant style of the temple, which follows the canons of Lombard-Catalan Romanesque, is unusual in the North. Experts point out that it was mainly at the end of the 11th century when it took on the image that can be seen today, but it is easy to appreciate its different phases and stages of construction. Made of slate masonry and granite ashlar, it has three naves covered with wood. Its dimensions, the size of the main nave of the temple and the large buttresses, which were added in the 18th century, are striking. The bell tower was attached to the right side.
It is possible to visit the interior space, although it is not always available to the public. The opening and closing times should be checked before going to the church if one wants a sure visit. If the ensemble is striking for its dimensions, the interior may be of special interest for the wonderful set of mural paintings found in the vault just fifteen years ago, during a restoration. They were made in the 12th century.
The sculptural ensemble of the basilica is also of interest, especially the capitals. Of the eleven located in the temple, nine belong to an anonymous sculptor with his own style who has become known as the Master of Mondoñedo.
Apse of the basilica. | Jaume Meneses, Wikimedia
As a good Galician enclave, this temple has its associated legends. Although in this case we must spek of legend attached to reality, because the stories are mainly starred by San Gonzalo, bishop who gave a great boost to the church. San Gonzalo, whose tomb is located in the southern part of the basilica, is attributed with several miraculous deeds, two of which are particularly well known. First, it is said that his prayers prevented a pirate raid on the estuary of Foz that would have caused great damage to the population. On the other hand, near San Martiño de Mondoñedo is the Zapata fountain. The story goes that San Gonzalo threw in this place a slipper getting water with miraculous properties. A saint with all the letters.
And also as a good Galician enclave, the corners surrounding the basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo complete an already exciting trip. The town where the temple is located is Foz, a coastal municipality that lives off the Cantabrian Sea, with its own beautiful estuary. You have to discover the Castelos de Foz, three large rock formations located off the coast that have always been known as castles because of their size and peculiar structure. Nor should you leave without visiting the castro of Fazouro or the church of Santiago de Foz, although the star of the place is the one that stars in these lines. The basilica of San Martiño de Mondoñedo, considered the oldest cathedral in Spain.
