The early appointment of Santillana del Mar as a Historic-Artistic Site in 1889, and the restorations undertaken by Count Güell (grandson of Antonio Lopez, the first Marquis of Comillas) in 1927 led to the streets of Santillana del Mar being preserved so well that they are virtually unchanged, maintaining their 16th century atmosphere.
The old town follows a linear scheme, in Y form, composed of Velasco Street which continues towards Santo Domingo, from where there are two streets: one that goes to the Collegiate Church and the other which leads to the main square, the market, or Ramón Pelayo, where the weekly Saturday market is held.
We start our tour in the Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana, a Romanesque design of the 12th century with later additions, which has been declared a national monument. The temple, of basilical design and with three naves, is crowned by semicircular apses, and follows the Romanesque model of the Way To Santiago.
The primitive Romanesque façade, at the foot of the temple, shows a series of reliefs preserved in the interior of the Church (Pantocrator, Saint Juliana…) due to the construction of the Bell Tower to the West in the 13th century, a gate was replaced on the South side.
In the middle of the 15th century the remains of Santa Juliana were moved to the front and in the first half of the 16th century the altarpiece of the altar greater was built. An important gold treasure is kept in the sacristy. The magnificent cloister (13th century), the only one of Romanesque style in Cantabria that is still intact, is esteemed by the great decorative variety and wealth of the capitals. Some of these capitals have representations of scenes from the Old and New Testament and others relating to the life of the time, as “The Welcome of the Lady to the Knight”.
Important Museums and Houses
The Museum of Jesús Otero is located in the Plaza de la Colegiata, which is a permanent exhibition on the sculptor from Santillana del Mar. Opposite from it you can find the Casa de la Archiduquesa de Austria, or Casa de los Abades (17th century), whose beautiful patio has been converted into an antiques shop. In the nearby Plaza de las Arenas is the Palace of Los Velarde (between the 15th and 17th centuries), a building from the Gothic to Renaissance transition.
Although there are many mansions that deserve mention, we’re pointing out some key examples in Santillana del Mar. Next to the uniquely conserved trough for cows, you can find the Casa de Cossio and the Casa Quevedo, both from end of the 17th century. In the latter it is traditional to drink a glass of milk and cake with the people of town.
Following the calle del Río (previously Rúa del Rey) you will find the Casa de los Villa, of Baroque style, also known as “Casa de los Hombrones” due to the imposing warriors that stand guard on the shield, in which states: “a good death is a work of life.” Another significant building is the Casa de Leonor de la Vega (between the 15th and the 17th centuries), according to the tradition, it housed the mother of the first Marquis of Santillana.
The concentration of the civil architecture can be found in the main square. The Torre de Don Borja, attached to other buildings and property of the Santillana Foundation is managed by the municipality of Santillana as the scene of festivals and cultural events.
The Torre del Merino, from the 14th century, was the residence of the merino (the house and symbol of Lordly power that eventually imposed the ecclesiastical power, the Abbot, and an was later appointed by the Duke of the Infantado). Built with stonework from blocks in the bow point of access, retains all its defensive elements: arrow slits, machicolations and embrasures battlements. On the other side of the square is the Casa del Águila (17th century) and the Casa de la Parra (16th century), converted together into the cultural center. In front of them is the Palace of Los Barreda, now Parador Nacional Gil Blas.
Street that leads to the Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana
A special architecture
More modern are the many large houses that the Indians built on their return from the Americas and which make up the baroque Santillana. They are characterized by a main façade in ashlar stone, with a large opening for access. Sometimes preceded by a portico with a semicircular arch. In any case, they are usually adorned with wrought iron balconies and a large family baroque coat of arms. Also characteristic of this century are the pulpit balconies and the oculi on the facades.
Across the road from the village is the Diocesan Museum. It is located in the Convent Regina Coeli of the Poor Clare Order and is inhabited by nuns. On the outskirts of the town, in the Convent of San Ildefonso, founded in 1667, there is a sixteenth-century ivory crucifix. Around the convent you can buy typical artisan sweets, made by the Dominican nuns themselves. Without a doubt, a place to see in Santillana del Mar, one of the most beautiful villages in Cantabria.
Next to the Campo de Revolgo, scene of medieval fights, is the Casa de los Tagle. It is a highly recommended visit, as it preserves the furniture and belongings of the period, as well as an important archive. Be that as it may, the whole of the town enjoys great charm. Although many elements point to tourism, what you see in Santillana del Mar still maintains a soul that transports the visitor to another era. A sensation that is reinforced for those who arrive at the place doing the Northern Way to Santiago.