The route of the Xanas, a hiking fairytale in Asturias

The Principality of Asturias is an autonomous community in the north of Spain which stands out for its gorgeous beaches and mountains. It has a rich gastronomy too, mainly based on meat and fish and, of course, on the famous Asturian dish known as fabada. These qualities, along with the wide range of activities one can enjoy there, attract tourists year after year.

At the very heart of Asturias we find one of the most emblematic routes of the Principality. It’s suitable for both kids and adults, and it offers spectacular views and lovely trails that go across mountain slopes and green fields causing a unique feeling of comfort. We’re talking about the route of the Xanas, whose name comes from Asturian mythology. The Xanas, mythological creatures similar to nymphs, inhabit the crystal waters of the streams, and they bewitch men with their charms.

This route, which is also called “the little Cares”, spreads for about four kilometres, allowing us to unearth the deepest secrets of Asturias. It goes through an old mine, a gorge carved on the rock, and a beautiful forest made of chestnut trees, birches, and hazels. The route also unveils the stalactites of age-old caves, forged over time by the stream of the Xanas on its way to the gorge.

The route of the Xanas is right in the middle of Asturias, meandering between the councils of Santo Adriano, Quirós, and Proaza. In order to get there, we need to drive to the starting point of the route, approximately 30 kilometres away from Oviedo, the capital of the Principality. This won’t take us more than a 30 minutes’ car drive to the parking of Villanueva or Molín de las Xanas.

A route full of magical spots

This path was built at the beginning of the 20^th century with the aim of linking Pedroveya and Villanueva. For that purpose, they dug the future trail into the rock, although the original goal was to build a road. This project backfired due to the steepness of the gorge, but the path remained. The fact that it’s more or less four kilometres long makes it easier to come and go, and most people end the route at the point of departure.

After we climb about 400 metres from Villanueva’s parking, the route will take us through a series of rocky paths until we reach some great tunnels dug in natural rocks. We will walk across them and keep walking up the mountain. There awaits us a passageway embedded in the mountain, slightly more than a metre and a half wide, reigning over the landscape at a height of more than 100 metres. The scarce fertile soil in this area only lets us spot little bushes trying to survive surrounded by white limestone rock.

As we climb up, we’ll be able to see a stunning gorge of limestone rock to the right of the path, which turns increasingly narrower. There is a lanyard secured to the rock for those who wish to climb. The views in this section are particularly striking, and the sound of the stream, hidden by the tree tops, comes along with us throughout the route. The vegetation displays a rich palette of shades of green, the range of colours of Asturias. Sometimes, a layer of fog blends in with the landscape, creating a picture the traveller shall never forget.

Further on, approximately in the middle of the route, a forest awaits the adventurers to guide them into the purest of natures, a sea of chestnut trees and rocks covered by moss. On the right, we see a crystal-clear river open up: the lair of the Xanas. Dogs love this spot, and many of them jump into the fresh water while their owners make a stop and eat a sandwich.

After we cross the river, we will follow a wooden staircase that will help us climb to the last section of the route, until we reach the parish of Pedroveya. Nature provides a surprise in every corner, treating us with several unforgettable pictures. The church of San Antonio welcomes travellers when they finally reach this place. This is an unparalleled landscape in the mountain, with large fields where animals graze peacefully among cliffs. The route ends here for some, but it’s only a stop for the travellers who wish to enjoy the route of the Xanas even more.

There is no better feeling that the one you experience in the open, in the middle of the mountains, tasting nature, fresh air, birdsongs and the enchanting sound of water peacefully flowing through the land. This feeling connects us to the earth and gently reminds us how small we are compared to the vastness of nature.

Exploring the surroundings: nature and an industrial heritage

After this long walk, it would be nice to rest a little, either by laying on the rest area next to the shrine, or by getting a taste of Asturian gastronomy, always providing abundant quality food. The parish of Pedroveya is only half an hour away, and we can recover in Casa Genoveva. There is nothing like a good fabada or a pote (a mix of vegetables, faba beans, and compango meat). We may round off the menu by ordering a nice arroz con leche.

Even though the route of the Xanas mainly stands out for its natural landscapes, this area in Asturias also has other hiking paths, like the Bear Path. Besides, the valley of Turbia has a remarkable industrial heritage that has been there for more than 200 years. For instance, the first school of professional training for workers in Spain was founded there. Apart from the manufacturing buildings, they made an actual town with a casino, canteens, and bars for workers.

Another relevant place regarding the industrial heritage is the hydroelectric power station of Proaza, designed by Joaquín Vaquero Palacios. There, engineering and modern architecture meet to create a true architectural and artistic wonder mixing concrete, art, and wall paintings with geometrical patterns. As we have seen, the route of the Xanas is a great plan for a getaway. Now all there is left is to enjoy it!