What to see in Gaudí’s Park Güell in Barcelona
Park Güell, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of those Spanish monuments whose name is known by everyone, both locals and foreigners. However, initially, this place was not meant to be a park or even open to the public. With time its purpose changed and it developed in a different way than planned. This is the history and what to see in Gaudí’s Park Güell in Barcelona.
At a time when modernism was all the rage and Barcelona was experiencing enormous industrial growth, businessman Eusebi Güell i Bacigalupi commissioned architect Antonio Gaudí to design a residential development on a plot of land of about 15 hectares known as the “Bare Mountain” in 1900.
Güell’s intention was to build a very exclusive community inspired by the English Garden City Movement. In fact, that is the reason why the official name of the park is in English. Since the businessman had spent his youth in the Jardins de la Fontaine in Nîmes, he also brought his own aesthetic, political and religious ideals to the project.
Park Güell’s Calvary was conceived as a chapel. | Shutterstock
Thus, concepts from Catalan politics and the Catholic religion can be seen in the project. An example of the former is the entrance staircase, where the Catalan Countries are represented. Regarding the latter, we can see cases such as the Calvary, a small promontory crowned by three crosses that, initially, was going to be a chapel and is one of the most relevant places to see in Park Güell.
However, despite its artistic interest, the project was a commercial failure. Of the 60 plots that were put up for sale to build residences, only three were carried out, two of which were drafted by Gaudí and Güell themselves. The reasons for this setback were mainly the remoteness of the location, the high prices offered, and the turbulent situation that prevailed in Barcelona after the Tragic Week. However, even though this failure could already be foreseen in 1906, the works continued for another eight years, constructing more common areas.
The chronology of the constructions was as follows. Between 1900 and 1903, the park fence, entrance pavilions, carriage shelter, entrance staircase, paths and viaducts, and sewage system were built. Then, between 1904 and 1906, the show house was built, where the architect moved to live in that same year. That is the current Gaudí House-Museum. In 1905, the architect Martín Trias i Domènech built the Trias House for a friend of Güell’s, the lawyer Josep Pardo i Casanovas.
Later, between 1908 and 1909, the Hypostyle Hall was built, which we will talk about later. Finally, between 1907 and 1913, the Greek theater with the undulating bench was erected. It was after the death of Count Güell, who died precisely in his house in Park Güell, that his heirs sold the estate to the City Council of Barcelona. This is how the park went from an exclusive residential project to becoming a public space and one of the essential monuments to see in Barcelona.
Entrance to Park Güell, with the entrance fence, the staircase, the Hipostyle Hall and the Nature Square in sight. | Shutterstock
Although several entrances were built in Park Güell, the main one through which tourists enter is located on the southern side, on Olot Street. An iron gate forged with palm leaf figures, from Casa Vicens, welcomes all the visitors.
On both sides of the gate, there are two pavilions resembling medieval defensive towers. One of them was occupied by the guard, and the other housed the reception for the supposed residential complex. In the Guard’s House, there is currently an information point where maps, models, photographs, and other materials are displayed.
Additionally, the roof of both pavilions showcases a spectacular ceramic cladding that anticipates the technique of collage or trencadís that the tourists will find again and again inside the park. On the other hand, here one can observe a piece of the wall that was initially going to cover the entire park.
The salamander that decorates the staricase is one of the most representative monuments of Park Güell. | Shutterstock
From the entrance, one can appreciate the great Dragon Staircase, as well as the Hypostyle Hall and the Greek Theater. The staircase, flanked by two walls, is divided into three sections. The first section stands out for the plants placed in a grotesque manner, and in the middle section, the coat of arms of Catalonia is displayed. However, it is in the third section where the most emblematic figure of the staircase and the park can be found: the polychrome salamander (or dragon). Without a doubt, this lizard is one of the main attractions of Park Güell.
On one side of this huge and monumental staircase, on the left side facing it, is the Baldiri Reixac school, where the former home of Count Güell was once located. On the other side we can find the Gardens of Austria, designed in the 1960s by Lluís Riudor i Carol. In this area we can see the other two houses of the complex: the one belonging to the lawyer Martí Trias i Domènech, and the one that was Gaudí’s residence, now known as the Gaudí House-Museum.
This last building holds a collection of works by Gaudí and some of his collaborators, such as the sculptor Carles Maní. On the first floor, furniture designed by the architect is displayed. On the second floor, Gaudí’s office and bedroom have been recreated. Finally, in the house garden, the pergola of parabolic arches, also designed by the artist, catches the visitors’ attention.
Nature Square, conceived as the Greek Theater. | Shutterstock
The central area of Park Güell is formed by two squares, located one above the other. The first is the large columned hall reached by the staircase, known as the Hypostyle Hall. The 86 columns that make it up, with Doric features, form a curious space that was initially intended as a market. These columns support a roof formed by small domes and decorated with trencadís mosaic panels, the work of Gaudí’s collaborator Josep M. Jujol.
The Hypostyle Hall supports part of the park’s second main square, which was originally called the Greek Theater, but is now known as the Nature Square. Initially, this esplanade was intended to serve as an outdoor performance venue to be enjoyed from the terraces of the houses, hence the name.
On its exterior, the Nature Square is delimited by another of the most representative images of the park: a bench whose backrest serves as a railing and is decorated with trencadís ceramic, also the work of Josep M. Jujol. It is also a beautiful viewpoint from which to admire Barcelona.
The Lavandera Portico, one of the must-sees in Park Güell. | Shutterstock
Upon entering Park Güell, visitors are greeted by a forest of winding paths, porticoed galleries with columns that resemble trees, and fountains with animal shapes. Nature is present everywhere.
To explore the park, visitors can —and should— take advantage of the viaducts that bridge the mountain’s uneven terrain. According to the park itself, Gaudí designed “three five-meter-wide viaducts that snake up the mountain, leading carriages from the main entrance on Olot street to the top of the development, the Three Crosses hill.” All these viaducts, they continue, “are suspended over a structure of inclined columns and domes made from uncut stones from the same terrain.”
Another must-see in Park Güell is the Lavandera Portico, located to the east of the Greek Theater square. This space, formerly the garden of Eusebi Güell’s house, is one of the best examples of Gaudí’s organic architecture.
A visit to Park Güell must be planned in advance, as it is a monument which welcomes a lot of visitors. Its general admission, which is better to book online, costs 10 euros. The price is intended to control the overcrowding of the space and improve the conditions of both the park and its surroundings.
