Comillas

Catalonian Modernism in Cantabria

Indian Village par excellence, trade with the Americas founded a splendor that today survives. Its privileged location on the western coast of Cantabria adds to the great beauty of its surroundings. This is why it has attracted rich holidaymakers since the 19th century. Such wealth generated an enviable Indian and modernist architecture. Nowadays, it is an area where the famous Northern Way to Santiago de Compostela passes through.

Plan your stay in Comillas

Comillas is one of the most beautiful localities in Cantabria. Things to do in Comillas will not take you more than one day. Among them, we can highlight: The Capricho of Gaudí, Sobrellano’s Palace and San Cristóbal’s cemetery. Besides, you can also visit some near localities such as Santillana del MarSan Vicente de la Barquera or Oyambre Natural Park. Comillas was declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1985 and it has gorgeous façades that you cannot miss.

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Primitive Comillas

Before getting to know the places to be seen in Comillas, it is advisable to review its long history. Some studies attribute a Celtic origin to its place name. In this way, the word Koma-Oe, horsehair or hill, would end up deriving in the current form. Such a theory seems very probable since the primitive fishing village was settled between three hills: La Cardosa, Sobrellano and La Coteruca. This orography, rich in chasms and caves, also favoured the presence of man since prehistoric times. He would leave his mark on various caves located in the surroundings, such as La Meaza or Portillo, among others. During the scarce Romanization of the area, the forests of Mount Corona and its mines were exploited.

Becoming important

The first documented mention of Comillas appears in one of the caves from the 11th century. It is about the donation to the abbey of Santillana of some houses “in villa de Comillas”. At that time, Cantabria was dominated by religious orders and hardly had any feudal lords. The economy and the military naval capacity began to be reinforced with the Castilian King Alfonso VIII (1155-1214).

Sailors from Comillas followed Admiral Ramón de Bonifaz in the reconquest of Seville. Thus, they played a leading role in the epic episode of the breaking of the chains of the bridge between Seville and Triana, on the River Guadalquivir (3 May 1248). This defence was the main obstacle that prevented the assault on the city. The event was reflected in the coats of arms of all the Cantabrian towns that sent ships to the conflict: Laredo, Castro Urdiales, Santander, San Vicente de la Barquera and Comillas.

Between the 16th and 18th centuries, the port of Comillas stood out for its whale fishing. In fact, it was the last Cantabrian base for ships dedicated to this task. In the late 19th century, its commercial activity was limited to shipping the region’s zinc ore. Nowadays, a small number of fishermen still practice hook fishing.

Old photograph of Comillas Villa

Nobility

The village reached its peak in the mid-nineteenth century, thanks to Antonio López y López (1817-1883). Of humble origin, at the age of 14 he emigrated to Cuba, where he made his fortune. On his return he married Luisa Bru Lassús in Barcelona, daughter of a Catalan who was also rich on the island. López founded the Compañía Transatlántica Española and the Compañía General de Tabacos de Filipinas, among many other business and banking activities.

Immensely rich, his help to King Alfonso XII earned him the title of Marquis of Comillas (1878). Three years later he was given the dignity of Grand of Spain. The King, invited by the Marquis, would come to the town to spend the summer with his court. This encouraged nobles and wealthy people to choose the region as a place to rest. Another key attraction was its beaches, ideal for the wave baths so in vogue at the time.

A charming architecture

The first Marquis of Comillas and his son Claudio López Bru (1853-1925) worked in the town with the best Catalan modernist architects. These are such notable names as Joan Martorell (1833-1906), Lluís Domènech i Montaner (1850-1923) and the young Antonio Gaudí (1852-1926), protected by Eusebi Güell (1846-1918). This modernist atmosphere brought a unique aspect to Indian architecture, serving the population as a sketch of the movement that would later explode in Catalonia.

Today the town has not lost its tourist pulse. The great examples of Indian architecture, especially those promoted by the first Marquis of Comillas, are mixed with its port past. Moreover, the fact that the Camino del Norte runs through it has helped to consolidate its international projection even more.

Declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1985, what you can see in Comillas is very varied. It has beautiful Indian and popular architecture, as well as magnificent examples of mountain houses. Noble coats of arms on the facades and beautiful cobbled streets help to create an inspiring atmosphere.

Old Town

In the heart of the historical centre, of medieval origin, is the Plaza de la Constitución, surrounded by large houses with wide viewpoints. The site contains the Old Town Hall of Comillas, which displays the coats of arms of the archbishops born in the town on one of its facades. As there have been five, the town is sometimes referred to as the Villa de los Arzobispos. For its part, the building now houses the Comillas Heritage Information Centre.

The Church of San Cristóbal (17th century) has the peculiarity of having been not only financed but also built by the inhabitants themselves. The reason for this was an altercation with the secretary of the Duke of Infantado in the old church, located in what is now the Gothic Cemetery of Comillas. During the construction, the locals reserved one day a week to participate in the works. It is also remarkable that it has two covers. The northern one is finished off by a niche with a San Cristóbal, a work of art by the sculptor of the neighbouring Santillana Jesús Otero. On the other hand, the south shows the coats of arms of the town and of the Crown.

The floor of the temple is quadrangular. Its head, rectangular, has a pyramid-shaped tower. Inside there are three naves. In spite of its dedication, the greatest element of worship is the image of the Cristo del Amparo, patron saint of fishermen. The rest of the complex stands out for its enormous sobriety, forced by the destruction of its altarpieces during the Civil War.

Continuing with what we see in Comillas, we arrive at Corro Campíos. In the past it was used as a meeting place where bowling and dancing took place on feast days. Nowadays it is a popular meeting point for both Comillas and holidaymakers.

In the nearby Joaquín de Piélago square, the New Town Hall of Comillas was built (19th century). It was built as a school by Manuela del Piélago and Sánchez de Movellán. It later took on its current function. The Casa Ocejo also stands out, an example of Indian architecture that was acquired by the first Marquis of Comillas.

The Casa del Ocejo is one of the most interesting places to see in Comillas, despite the fact that it is not accessible from the inside. King Alfonso XII stayed there during the summer of 1881. He also presided over a Council of Ministers, which made the town the capital of Spain for one day. The main façade, built in ashlar and with arches ending in ogival ornaments on the ground floor, stands out. In addition, Gaudí designed the fireplace and the main hall for the interior, as well as a Chinese kiosk for the garden.

Main Square

A little further away is the Plaza de los Tres Caños where, as expected, the Los Tres Caños Fountain is located. This stone fountain was designed by the architect Lluis Domènech in honour of Joaquín del Piélago, who financed the water supply to the town. The bulb on top of the fountain reminds us that the town was the first town in Spain with electric light.

El Espolón (1804) is an interesting building to see in Comillas. It has a quadrangular floor plan and is arranged around a classicist patio. It is the work of the Cantabrian master Cosme Antonio de Bustamante. Juan Domingo González de la Reguera (1720-1805), Archbishop of Lima, ordered its construction. The initial function of the place was to serve as a school for local children, and it even had a Latin chair. It has recently been restored to serve as a cultural center.

Comillas

El Espolón

Outside the centre of Comillas is the Mirador de Santa Lucía. It boasts magnificent views over the beach. Its location corresponds to a small chapel where fishermen used to go to pray before going out to sea.

Gaudi’s Work

The legacy of Antonio López, the first Marquis of Comillas, is the focus of much of what you see in Comillas. He hired some outstanding Catalan architects, who had the opportunity to carry out his first modernist works. The best examples are Lluis Domènech i Montaner and the famous Antonio Gaudí. The main work of the latter in the villa is El Capricho by Gaudí (1883-1885). A project from his first period, it was carried out by the architect Cristóbal Cascante. As its name indicates, it is shown as a whim among the trees. It is a clear example of the integration of architecture, music and nature.

El Capricho de Gaudí is a modernist style summer residence with a Mudejar influence. It surprises the games of rounded volumes of rich colors, the grills with function of bank towards the interior and the tower with form of oriental minaret. The design of the rooms in the building is designed so that the sunlight illuminates all the rooms throughout the day. The use of the sunflower as a decorative element refers precisely to the path of the light. The building was declared a Historic-Artistic Monument in 1969.

Sobrellano Palace

Next to Gaudí’s Capricho is the Sobrellano Palace or Marqués de Comillas Palace (1882-1888). Of neo-Gothic style, it is one of the great buildings to see in Comillas. It was commissioned to the Catalan architect Joan Martorell and executed by Cristóbal Cascante. It forms part of the Sobrellano Palace Chapel-Pantheon, also by Martorell. It looks like a sort of miniature cathedral. In this case the stained glass windows and the pantheons were sculpted by Llimona and the Vallmitjana brothers. Some of the furniture was also designed by Gaudí.

Many places to visit

On the hill of La Cardosa we find the Old Pontifical University of Comillas. Again there is the figure of Antonio Lopez as responsible for its commission. It originally served as a Jesuit seminary for the poor. Currently it is the headquarters of the Comillas Foundation, which is dedicated to the specialized teaching of Spanish. An eclectic Gothic-Mudejar work by the architect Martorell, it maintains the layout of the works of the Society of Jesus. The lowered arch of the staircase, by Domènech, and the door of the Virtues, by the sculptor Eusebio Arnau, are interesting.

One of the most suggestive places to see in Comillas is the Cemetery of San Cristóbal or the Gothic Cemetery of Comillas. It is located on a small hill and built on the ruins of an old church . It was reformed by Domènech, emphasizing the Ruskinian idea of the ruin. It has some modernist mausoleums and a cover in the same style. Impressive is the Guardian Angel of José Llimona, a stone watchman who protects the cemetery.

The port of Comillas is the last of the Cantabrian ports that were dedicated to the capture of the whale. In fact, pieces of 17th century artillery are preserved in its wharf. Two small lighthouses located in place of the old watchtowers remind us of the place from which the whales were sighted.

Must-see...

Corros Campíos
Sobrellano Palace

Practical Data

Coordinates

43° 23′ 13″ N, 4° 17′ 22″ W

Distances

Santander 48 km, Santillana del Mar 16 km, Madrid 458 km

Altitude

27 m

Habitants

2374 (2013)


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